In northern Sicily, on a territory measuring 90 km², a passing tourist might stumble across the immense, open-air art centre Fiumara d’Arte. In this desert and relatively harsh terrain – a former riverbed now dried up – some twenty monumental works, as massive as they are loaded with meaning, carve out a surprising path, far away from the touristic photo-ops of the Mediterranean. On the whole, the works do not bank on subtlety, but the centre’s founder Antonio Presti, heir to a burgeoning cement business, protects them from the winds and tides, speaking as though he were going head to head with the very evils that are gutting his country.

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